Award Winning Competition Brisket

[The Big Pig]

Brisket is the hardest category to cook for KCBS comps. This conclusion is supported by the facts. If you look at our KCBS Contest Stats page, you’ll see that fewer teams score in the Top 10 in brisket than any other category even though an equal number of teams are competing in each category. Brisket can be intimidating. It’s typically the largest cut we cook at contests and it has the most variables of all the category meats. It’s the most complex category and takes the longest to cook.

As you can see in this diagram, brisket is cut from the tough, underside (the breast) of the cow. These muscles are heavily used for walking and running and are therefore much tougher than other cuts of meat. In addition, brisket is filled with fat and collagen, a fibrous protein that connects tissues together. As the collagen cooks, it turns into a gelatin of sorts and some of it is absorbed into the meat, which is why barbecued brisket tastes so good. It takes a skilled cooking technique to get the collagen and fat to render enough to make the meat edible.

We competed in contests for over 4 years before we finally cracked the Top 10 in the Brisket category. Admittedly, we were less than serious about learning how to cook contest brisket during that period. We just kept doing the same things over and over, usually getting a middle of the pack finish. Our friends and families would rave about our brisket but the judges never seemed overly impressed.

A little over a year ago we focused on improving our contest brisket and it’s paid off. We’ve had 8 brisket calls in the last 14 months including a 1st in a 61 team contest. One of the biggest resources we’ve used in learning how to improve has been the Internet. We seem to take a little info from here and there and compile it into new techniques and processes to try out. I never quite found a good, detailed, unified resource on how to consistently win in KCBS brisket. My hope is to create a thread that we can all reference as needed, especially those just starting out. Contest cooking has also made me a better BBQ cook and I think even backyard cooks will benefit from this information.

My plan is to add to this thread over the next few months, tackling different aspects with each addition. Because of the way threads work, let’s try and keep the discussion limited to parts that have been posted. Here’s how I plan to break this thread down:

• Part 1 – Selection
• Part 2 – Trimming
• Part 3 – Seasoning (injections, rubs, foil marinades, finishing sauces)
• Part 4 - Cooking
• Part 5 – Once Cooked (Resting, Separation, Burnt Ends, and Slicing the Flat)
• Part 6 – Final Presentation

There are a lot of different ways to produce a winning brisket. Rarely do we come across winning chefs that do everything the same way. Even we don’t always do things the same way when competing. So please add your own experience, observations, opinions, techniques, and questions.

[The Big Pig]

I live in the Kansas City metropolitan area. We have an abundance of fresh beef sources readily an economically available. Yet finding a great brisket takes work. Getting the right piece to use in a contest is tremendously important. The quality of your entry can only be as good as the meat you choose to cook.


Cut

We prefer to use whole packers for contests. A whole packer brisket consists of the flat, the deckle or point, and a whole lot of fat. There are several reasons we prefer packers over flats:

• The cost per pound is cheaper. It’s not uncommon to pay twice as much per pound for a brisket flat than a whole packer.
• We generally buy our brisket by the case. The kill or packing date is found on the case label and this information is important for ageing. I’ve learned not to trust butchers because they often don’t know the packing date and will sometimes make one up. I like to see the label on the case.
• We get to trim the cut to our specification rather than having a butcher or processor do it.
• The flat slices coming from where the flat joins the point are generally the best for turn-in.
• We like to include burnt ends (made from the point) with our entry when possible.

Here’s a picture of a packer brisket still in the cryovac. To the left of the red line is the point, to the right is the flat.




Grade
We like Certified Angus Beef (CAB) for contests. In this region, CAB seems to provide a consistent flavor and tenderness that pleases the judges. Certified Angus Beef is brand designation that indicates the beef is either in the upper two levels of USDA Choice or Prime grades. Less than 8% of beef gets the Certified Angus Beef brand. You can read about all of the requirements at the CAB website.

If CAB is unavailable, then make sure and get a USDA Choice grade brisket. We have used Prime and Kobe briskets at contests. The judges have punished us each time so I don’t recommend their use in a Midwest contest. I’ve heard that in this region, the rich taste of Kobe is unfamiliar to judges and our scores seem reflect that when we use a Prime grade or Kobe brisket.


Case Lots

We prefer to buy our brisket by the case. The cases we buy have 6-8 pieces and weigh 75-100lbs. Buying brisket by the case gives us a few advantages:

• It’s cheaper, CAB brisket runs about $1.70/lb. here in KC.
• It gives us access to the packing date (important for ageing).
• We get to choose the best pieces for contests.
• We always have a supply of good brisket on hand.

Now, buying by the case also has its downside too:

• You have to buy, pick up, and transport 75-100lbs at a time.
• You have to store 75-100lbs at a time.
• You typically only have a 30-45 day window in which to use your 75-100lbs.

Not all pieces in a case may be suitable for competitions. When we break down our cases, we look for the characteristics I’m listing here and sometimes, especially if I’m getting 10-12lb. packers, I’ll deem 1 or more pieces for personal use only because they do not meet my contest standards. In terms of percent of contest suited briskets per case, I seem to have better luck with 14-16lb. packers.

Sometimes, you’ll come across a meat packer slice (a deep cup that goes almost all the way through) across the brisket flat which renders the whole flat unsuitable for competition. Even worse, you won’t see this slice until you remove the brisket from the cryovac. That’s an ugly surprise to have at a contest so I usually trim my briskets the night before so I have time to deal with the situation.

During competition season, I sometimes will divide up a case among friends and team mates. If I only need 2 briskets for a competition, I may get 3 or 4 friends to split the rest of the case. In this win-win scenario, our team gets good quality contest meat and the rest of us get great quality briskets to use at home that are better and cheaper than what’s available at the market.

You can see some of the case labels in the pictures below. The first shows the packing date and the second picture shows the grade and CAB designation.




Sourcing
Out here, Sam’s Club carries Choice packers. Here’s a secret tip - they sometimes have CABs mixed in but you have to look for the CAB logo on the cryovac (see picture below for example). In other regions of the country, Sam’s may not have packers but Costco might. And, most stand alone butchers or meat markets can special order cuts for you if they don’t already stock them. But make sure and use a butcher you trust.



In order to buy a case, you can talk to the butcher at your store or contact a meat wholesaler/distributor in your area. There are only a few meat packers that most of the wholesalers and distributors use in this area. You’ll quickly learn the different packing brands and associated part numbers. Once you have this information, you can call around get quotes on your desired part number.

The wholesaler we currently use will actually store the beef for us until we’re ready for it. I give him the desired age I need by specific date, and he keeps track of the logistics and storage so all I do is show up and get the case I need when I need it. Once our seasoned is planned, I can just place 1 order with the desired age and pick-up dates for the whole year.

[The Big Pig]

Age
Beef muscles go through rigormortis when slaughtered. Over time, the muscle proteins responsible for rigormortis break down and the meat becomes pliable again. We seem to score our best in contests when the brisket is about 45 days old (based on packing date). This date is only available on the case the brisket came in. Many of the folks behind a meat counter are unable to provide this information for their briskets or even worse, they may lie about it.

If you’re ordering by the case, keep in mind that your wholesaler may get briskets as young as 7 days so you’ll need to provide 35-40 days of lead time to your supplier so you can time the ageing right. For contests, we’ll use a brisket that’s as low as 40 days old or as high as 60 days old. So if we’re doing back to back contests, we may get up to 3 weeks use from a single case. Store your briskets in refrigerator that isn’t opened often. You will see small bubbles start to form under the cryovac as the brisket ages. This is normal.

The meat needs to be stored in a stable environment of 32-34F. It also needs to remain sealed in the cryovac. If the cryovac breaks open or there is too much air in the package, you’ll need to cook or freeze the beef right away. We do not use a brisket that has been frozen in competition.


Weight
Our wholesaler breaks down briskets by the average weight of the packer briskets in the case. We can order 8-10lb. pieces, 10-12 lb. pieces, 12-14lb. pieces and 14-16 lb. pieces. As a general rule, the bigger the brisket the older the steer from which it came. And older means tougher. The 8-10lb. packers are too small for competitions. The flats are usually too thin and the point may not be big enough to get a good selection of burnt ends from. Our best scoring briskets generally come from the 12-14lb. range. Recently, we’ve been experimenting with 16 lbs.+ at contests. Although we’ve had moderate success with these larger cuts, it’s still too early for us to draw any firm conclusions.


Visual Indicators
Protein Color – we look for briskets with a good red beef color. Brown and gray are no good although you’ll trim the gray meat away.

Marbling – Look for briskets with lots of even marbling or fat between the muscle grain. Meat with marbling will be more tender and juicy.

Fat Color – Look for white fat, the brighter the better.

Flat Thickness – Typically, you can only see the thickness of the flat on one side of the cryovac. The other side is covered by fat, and the middle has 2 layers of fat and the point under the flat so you can’t really use those areas to judge the thickness. The thicker the flat, the better. Thin flats don’t present as well. See the pictures below to help you determine the thickness of the brisket flat.



Flat Grain – I like briskets with flat grains that are more parallel to the longitudinal axis than those more parallel to the lateral axis (see the pic below for an example). We’re going to slice the flat against the grain. If the grain followed the red line in the picture, our slices would be 13” wide…much wider than the 9” box we use for turn-ins. Whereas if the grain follows the green line, all of our slices would be suitable for the width of the box. So, a grain pattern following the red line will result in fewer slices to choose from and more aggressive trimming to fit in the box, and grain patterns following green line will result in more slices to choose from and no trimming required to fit in box. In reality, the grain on most of the briskets you come across will be like the blue line, somewhere in between. Look for briskets that have grain patterns that are closer to the green line than the red line.




Be on the lookout for briskets that have a grain pattern that curves and avoid those when possible. Straight slices against a curvy grain will result in different textures across the slice that can appear awkward and may be tougher in some places.


Quantity
We always cook at least two briskets for contests. I cannot explain why, but one brisket will almost always be noticeably better than the other. Sometimes it is more tender, sometimes it tastes better, sometimes both. Even though both briskets are prepared and cooked the same way, one will always be better than the other. We have cooked as many as four briskets for a contest but then we run into another problem. There is not a lot of time to process 4 whole briskets while getting ready for turn-in.


Even when I am not shopping for briskets, I have developed a habit of perusing the meat department and looking at various cuts. If I am in Sam’s or Costco, I almost always rummage through the Cryovacs of brisket, pork, steaks, roasts, etc. looking for potential diamonds in the rough. It is fun, educational, and cost effective practice. And if you don’t see a brisket that meets your standards, ask the butcher if you can sort through additional stock. The warehouse stores will usually bring out additional cases if they have them available.

[The Big Pig]

Quality Knives
One mistake we made for years was to only bring our worst cutlery with us to contest for fear of theft or damage to the good stuff. We learned that bad knives increase the workload and diminish the quality of the final product. Only use quality, sharp knives for trimming. This holds true for all of the meat categories for trim work and presentation slicing. It is important to use sharp knives that you’re comfortable with and know how to wield.

For me, good knives are fundamental to good BBQ. We only bring 4 knives with us to contests: 4” paring knife, 7” Santoku knife, 8” Chef’s knife, and a 12” slicer with a Granton edge. We also bring a sharpener and a steel with us and regularly hone the edges during a contest. For trimming brisket, I’ve become rather efficient using the Santoku and paring knives (pictured below). I like to use the Santoku for edge trimming, sizing, and most of the fat trimming. I switch to the paring knife when removing the vein of fat between the flat and the point and small pockets of fat.




Rinse the Brisket
Remove the brisket from the Cryovac. Rinse the brisket under cold water. Pat dry with paper towels and move it to the cutting board. Don’t be alarmed if it smells a little rank at first. The longer it has been aged, the stronger the rank smell may be. The smell should dissipate after the brisket has been rinsed. If the brisket still smells bad after it’s been rinsed, you may have a spoiled brisket.


Trim Away Fat
Most of the fat you see on a brisket will not render when cooked. Some cooks save the fat trimming for after the brisket is cooked. The fat will be softer and easier to remove then. But we believe it’s better to trim the fat before it’s cooked for a few reasons:

• It’s difficult to gauge the thickness of the flat unless the fat is removed
• It’s difficult to optimally size the flat unless the fat is removed
• Trimming external fat away after it’s been cooked removes your seasonings too
• It takes extra fuel to cook the fat

But you don’t want to remove all of the fat. Fat provides protection against heat and moisture loss and, maybe more importantly, a thin layer of fat adds a lot of flavor and richness to the flat. We like to trim most of the thick part of the fat vein between the point and the flat, all of the fat around the point, all of the fat on the top of the flat, and all but a 1/8” to ¼” layer of fat on the bottom (fat side) of the flat.

Start by removing most of the fat separating the point and the flat. In the picture below, start trimming your brisket by targeting the area between the red and the blue lines.




Once that’s done, the brisket should look similar to the one in the picture below. Notice how the point uncurled without the fatty connective tissue and now lays almost flat. Also, notice how we like to remove some of the fat in between the point and flat layers. This allows us to easily size the brisket later. We do not completely separate the flat and point because the region of the flat where the point is attached is a target rich area for moist slices.




Next, we trim most of the fat from the point. The point is a really fatty piece of meat and doesn’t benefit from external fat. By removing the fat around the point, we get more seasoning and smoke flavor on our burnt ends. In the pictures below, I folded the point over the flat so it remained on the cutting board for the pictures.




Once you’re done trimming the point, focus on the bottom (fat side) of the brisket. We want to leave some fat here to protect the meat from the heat and to add flavor to the fat. Trim this layer of fat to a uniform 1/8” – ¼” in thickness. See the picture below.




Edge Trimming
Once you’ve trimmed the fat, it’s time to trim the edges. Remove all gray meat from the brisket. The gray meat is meat that has slightly spoiled because of the wet ageing process. The picture below shows a fully trimmed brisket. The top of the flat has been folded over the bottom of the point for picture purposes. Notice the packer slices. These nasty little surprises can derail your entry slices of the flat. Unfortunately, you can’t detect them in the Cryovac. It’s best to trim your brisket the night before the contest at home so you have time to get and prepare an alternate brisket in the event the packer has sliced too deep in the wrong location.




Sizing the Flat for the Box
Next, it’s time to trim the width of the flat down so it will fit in the box without bending or chopping an end off. Keep in mind that the flat will be sliced against the grain so the width is trimmed parallel to the grain.

We use a standard 9” Styrofoam clamshell for this purpose but another type of measuring stick would work just fine. Align the side edges of the bottom of the clamshell with the grain so that the thinnest part of the flat sticks out on the edges. Then go in about ½” from each edge and trim the excess parallel to the grain. You want to remove the thinnest parts of the flat, leaving the thickest part in a width that will nicely fit your entry box. You can get up to ½” of width shrinkage while cooking but the actual shrinkage is inconsistent. Make sure and trim the brisket to a width less than the width of the box at the height of your garnish. When removing a portion of the flat closest to the point, take care not to slice through the point and only remove the flap of flat.




Once this trimming is done, your brisket is ready to inject or season. We try and get the brisket trimmed like this before the contest when possible.

[The Big Pig]

Adding or enhancing flavor to your competition brisket is important. I have not yet encountered anyone who cooks them without some type of seasoning. However, I have met some folks who just use salt and pepper for their contest briskets and let nature take care of the rest. This is in no way meant to be the definitive way to season your brisket, only a description of how we now do it. Keep in mind we are still learning and evolving and chances are, a year from now we’ll be doing something slightly different.

Our seasoning process is a little more complex and involved than sprinkling salt and pepper on the brisket. This is partly because we fall victim to the “complex must be better” belief, partly because we like how the brisket tastes, but mostly because this is what has worked for us. We start the seasoning process with an injection, then we apply a rub, then we re-rub before it goes into the foil, we add a marinade/mop when it goes into the foil, we use a finishing sauce, and lastly, we dust it with a special rub right before it goes into the box.


Injecting
We inject our briskets. We’ve not found another way to deliver the flavors and additives deep into the meat in the time frame we have at a contest. Simply marinating the meat for 24 hours only impacts the outer layer of the cut to a depth of about ¼”. And, we don’t have 24 hours to marinate a brisket at a contest.

Our brisket success started when we began using a special injection mix called Fab B. Fab is a brand of concentrated injection marinades sold by http://www.theingredientstore.com. I’ve not seen it anywhere else.

The Fab line of products is expensive and somewhat controversial among BBQ chefs. The purist types do not like it and scorn those who use it. I’ve even spoken with a few KCBS judges that will automatically score brisket entries down if they taste it. It’s easy to strike up a debate just by mentioning it in any group of BBQ cooks. That being said, we believe using Fab gives us a competitive advantage.

Fab B tastes like beef bouillon and imparts a beefy flavor when used. It is loaded with MSG, a flavor enhancer. The most important ingredient might well be the sodium phosphates, which seem to promote fluid retention in the muscle fibers. The result is a Fab brisket will be juicier than a non-Fab brisket assuming all other variables remain the same. Brisket has a tendency to dry out quickly once sliced. Fab seems to counter that tendency and that is huge when you consider your slices might be sitting in a Styrofoam clamshell for 30 minutes before being judged.

Many teams are finding success with a Fab competitor, Butcher BBQ Brisket marinade. We’ve not used their brisket marinade before but I understand it has similar properties to Fab. And I occasionally hear of other similar products but have yet to see any widespread adoption.

Because of some of the negatives associated with using Fab B that I mentioned above, we’ve learned to respect the potency of the product. Our goal at each contest is to create an entry that most judges cannot identify the use of Fab in the preparation of our brisket. To accomplish this, we switched to Fab B Lite. Fab B (regular), when used in the recommended concentrations will leave injection marks on your flat slices. These are darkened blotches that everyone can see and will know that an injection was used. And, injection marks make the meat appear less appealing even to those who are not biased against Fab. Light injection marks can be masked with a finishing sauce. But Fab B in its recommended concentration is hard to mask. Look at the picture below.



In the picture above, the darkened blotches are a result of Fab B (regular) in its recommended concentration (2 C water to 1 C Fab B). The yellow tinge resulted from a failed experiment of adding olive oil, and garlic and onion powder to the injection. That brisket came in 21 out of 52 teams at a KCBS contest. The appearance scores were 8-7-7-7-7-7, or an average of 7.17. We know we have to get a 6 judge average of at least 8.0 to get a call on an entry and this one clearly missed the mark. A side lesson from this particular entry was that a contest is not the place for first time experiments.

Our current brisket injection recipe is simple. We place 1 and 1/3 C Fab B Lite in a 32 OZ container (we usually use the Zip-Loc brand plastic containers) and fill the rest with water. This results in an approximate concentration of 2/3 C Fab B Lite to 2 C water. The Fab will have the consistency of a thin gravy when mixed. It is more than enough to inject 2 full packer briskets. I could easily inject 3 packers with this much and probably 4, but I like to have an ample supply and use the extra for the marinade or soak time.

When injecting the brisket, we use a Cajun Deluxe injector. These are the green and clear units you can readily find in many kitchen departments at retail stores. We’ve tried other brands that appear similar but they don’t seem to work as well and quickly break. With a little practice, these inexpensive injectors are quite versatile, durable, efficient, and easy to use. Currently, they run about $12 each and we bring 2 to every contest.

The key to using this type of injector is to apply pressure to the plunger as you withdraw the needle. Stick the needle into the meat at angle parallel to the grain and plunge as you pull the needle out. We use a fairly conservative injection pattern in about 1” increments on the flat and the point. When injecting, pay attention to the resistance the meat gives the needle and injection. The areas that are harder to inject are usually tougher once cooked and you’ll want to pay attention to those areas when slicing and selecting pieces for the box. See the picture below for an example of our injection pattern.



Once injected, we put the brisket into an oversized XXL Zip-loc bag along with any excess injection mix we have. An economical alternative is to use small (4 gal) trash bags. Just make sure that they are not perfumed or coated with anything that will taint your meat. I then like to stress the brisket by stretching and twisting it a little to help loosen some of the muscle fibers and more evenly distribute the injection. Once this is done, the bag goes into the cooler to marinate for at least 4 hours.

As you’ll see in the cooking section, we put our briskets on the cooker between 1-2AM on Saturday morning. So, we like to inject after the cooks meeting, usually around 8-9PM on Friday night. I’m not entirely convinced that a longer marinade time detracts from success so I wouldn’t shy away from injecting earlier if convenient. When I cook at home, I usually marinate brisket in the Fab injection overnight (after injecting it).

[The Big Pig]

The Rub
Not everyone injects or marinates their brisket but everyone I’ve encountered uses a dry rub. A rub is simply a combination of seasonings and spices that is applied to the exterior of the brisket prior to cooking. For brisket, we favor rubs that are generally high in salt and pepper content.

When choosing a rub, make sure you take into account how the rub is going to taste along with your other seasonings, especially the finishing sauce if used. Try and use rubs that compliment the rest of your flavor profile.



We’ve not really settled on the perfect rub or combination yet but we’ve placed in the Top 10 in the last year using these rub combinations:

• The Slabs Beef Rub / Smokin Guns Hot
• The Slabs Beef Rub / Jim Baldridge’s Secret Seasoning
• LottaBull’s Red Dirt / Jim Baldridge’s Secret Seasoning

For personal use brisket cooks, in addition to our contest brisket rubs I often use these or a combination of these:

• Montreal Steak Seasoning
• Lotta Bull’s UnBULLeivable
• Daddy Hinkle’s Original
• Dizzy Pig’s Raising the Steaks
• Dizzy Pig’s Cow Lick Rub
• Lowrey’s Seasoned Salt and Black Pepper
• Sea Salt
• Ground Bayleaf
• Cayenne Pepper

Recently, I’ve been using a lot of Plowboy’s Bovine Bold rub on my beef but have to use it in a contest cook. It is really good and I look forward to competing with it next year.

When buying rubs, try and buy in bulk when practical. For many of the rubs I use, I buy them in 5 LB.+ increments. Most of the rub manufacturer’s have bulk options on their web site and I’ve had good luck getting bulk options contacting them directly. Buying in bulk will save you up to 75% off buying the retail shaker jars. I cook a lot and go through a lot of product in a year and an added benefit of buying in bulk is that I almost always have it on hand and that’s one less thing I need to run out and get for contests.

Buying rub in bulk may not be practical for everyone. Like almost all of your spices, rubs lose potency over time. A good rule of thumb for rub shelf life is 12 months. So whatever quantity you purchase should be used within a year. When storing rub, I vacuum package it in small 6-12oz. Foodsaver bags and store in my cool, dark basement.

Once the brisket has been marinating for 4+ hours, remove it from the Zip-Loc bag and drip dry it for a few seconds while holding it. Do not rinse it or pat it dry with a paper towel. Place the brisket on your work surface fat side up.

We start with the fat side up because we’re going to season it and flip it over to season the other side. Once flipped, the bottom side will lose some of the rub in the gravy like Fab marinade drippings on the cookie sheet. As you’ll see in the cooking section, we cook the brisket fat side down which also knocks of the rub as the brisket is placed, moved, and removed from the cooking grate. We also think the rub on the top of the flat (non-fat side) is slightly more important than the rub on the bottom of the flat (fat side).

Season the brisket liberally. We like to pat the rub down on the wet, sticky surface of the marinated brisket. When using a combination of rubs or seasonings, place the finest rub first followed by the coarser rub. For example, if we’re using a combination of The Slabs Beef Rub and Jim Baldridge’s Secret Seasoning, we’ll apply a coat of The Slabs first followed by Jim Baldridge’s. We apply a heavy coat of rub on brisket, far more than you would to a steak. This is because much of the rub is going to be lost during handling and cooking.

Once all of the sides and crevices of the brisket have been thoroughly seasoned, the brisket is promptly placed on the cooker.


Seasoning for Foil
Our next seasoning point in the process comes when we’re ready to wrap the semi-cooked brisket in aluminum foil (see Part 4 –Cooking for details about wrapping in foil). We cook brisket on a rotisserie cooker. As the unit rotates, the drippings from one rack to another help keep the meat moist but it also washes off some of our seasoning while cooking. And, the long cooking times and heat reduce the potency of the external seasonings. So we like to lightly re-season the meat before it goes into the foil wrap. At this point, season it like you would a steak.

We add a 1 Cup of marinade to the brisket in the foil wrap. Do not pour the marinade over the brisket in the foil because it will wash your rub off, pour it along the sides. The brisket will braise in this marinade for a little while cooking (good for moisture and tenderness), but then absorb some of it while resting and cooling (better for moisture, tenderness, and flavor). Click here for our foil marinade recipe.


Finishing Sauce
The finishing sauce is important to us. In addition to the flavor, it gives the meat a moist appearance and protects it from drying out. We use the same finishing sauce on the flat and the brunt ends. We generally stay away from the sweeter sauces for brisket. For now, we've settled on using Cowtown for contest brisket.

We like to mix the juice from the foil wrap with BBQ sauce for both the flat slices and the burn ends. But we use a different ratio for each. Always taste these drippings before using them. Because the brisket is wrapped in foil for a period of time, the drippings may leech too much smoke flavor from the brisket, causing it to taste bitter. If the drippings don’t taste good, we’ll cut the finishing sauce with apple juice, beef broth, butter, or water.

For the flat slices, we use between 2-4 TBSP of BBQ sauce mixed with 1+ C of drippings from the foil. For burnt ends, we use about 12 oz of BBQ sauce mixed with a 2-4 TBSP of drippings from the foil. As you’ll see in Part 5, we like to bake the finishing sauce onto the burnt ends.


Final Seasoning
Using a coffee grinder, we grind a small amount Smoking Guns Hot rub into a fine powder (about the consistency of powdered sugar). We lightly sprinkle a small amount this fine rub onto the slices and burnt ends right before they go into the box. It adds a just little highlight to the final flavor. The fine texture blends right in to the finishing sauce and judges can’t see or feel the late seasoning.

[Petite]

During competition season, I sometimes will divide up a case among friends and team mates. If I only need 2 briskets for a competition, I may get 3 or 4 friends to split the rest of the case. In this win-win scenario, our team gets good quality contest meat and the rest of us get great quality briskets to use at home that is better and cheaper than what’s available at the market.

Paul dont be shy to ring the old petite house if you need another leg to help break those up!

p.s. dude Paul, awesome article. if you typed that all yourself gold star my friend. gold star indeed!

[The Big Pig]

Every cooker is different and I can only share how we cook brisket on our cookers. It’s important to take the information I’m sharing and adapt it the best you can to the equipment you are using for optimal results.

We currently are using a Kingfisher offset stick burner with a rotisserie for cooking brisket at competitions. At home, I often use a Weber Smokey Mountain for small cooks. The basics are the same but some of the details change between the cookers.


Fuel and Smoke Flavor
We use a combination of charcoal and split logs in the Kingfisher for fuel. For contests, we use Wicked Good charcoal exclusively. Wicked Good is a great, clean burning charcoal and the briquettes use natural binders so it can be burned in the cooker straight from the bag without have to pre-burn it first. You can read a thorough review of Wicked Good and other brands at the Naked Whiz Charcoal Review web site.

At first glance, it will appear that Wicked Good costs about twice as much as Kingsford. However, we’ve learned that it burns longer and hotter than Kingsford so we use less than half as much of it. We used to burn through 5 22 lb. bags of Kingsford at a contest and now use 6 11 lb. bags of Wicked Good. So in the end, the Wicked Good costs only slightly more than Kingsford.

I mostly use the briquettes but have been using more of the lump as of late. If you don’t know where to find this brand in your area, visit the Wicked Good web site and click on the “Where to Buy” link. If you can afford it, ask your dealer about bulk discounts. You can usually save a few bucks per bag if you’re willing to buy in bulk.

For wood, we try use a 2:1 ratio of cherry and hickory. We’ll start the cooker with charcoal and a stick of cherry. Then, about every 60 minutes we feed it charcoal and a few hickory chunks, or, a stick or two (depending on size) of cherry. I buy cherry by the cord (4x4x8 woodpile). Here in KC, it runs about $240 for a cord of seasoned, split, delivered, and stacked cherry. A cord will last me about 16 months.


Temperature and Placement
You can cook brisket low and slow at temperatures of 200-225F, or high and fast at temperatures of 325-375F. We’ve met successful cooks at both ends of the spectrum. The key is to find a temperature you’re comfortable with and be consistent.

Maintaining a consistent temperature throughout the cook is probably the most difficult challenge for most cooks. We use a BBQ Guru DigiQ II power draft system to help steady the cooking temperatures. Some other competitors use a Stoker power draft system and still others even use digitally controlled pellet cookers. Many competition cooks still don’t rely on a power draft system or digital thermostat. But for us, we’ve found we need all the help we can get keeping the Kingfisher and a stable temperature throughout the cook.

We cook brisket at a cooking grate temperature of 250F for the entire cook. To achieve this on the Kingfisher, we fire it up to a temperature of 290F (at the probe closest to the firebox) and cook it in the middle of the pit chamber. We installed an extra probe in the middle just so we can keep an eye on the temperatures there. We rotate the brisket every 2 hours just to prevent one end from cooking faster than the other end.

It’s important to understand the heat profile of the cooker you are using. Heat rises and will follow the path of least resistance. In most offsets, the temperature is higher the closer you are to the firebox. For bullet type cookers or cookers where the firebox is located underneath the pit, lateral placement isn’t as important as vertical placement (higher is hotter). You need to know what the temperature is where you are cooking your meat and you need to keep that temperature consistent.


Fat Side Up or Down
We want the fat to be between the meat and the heat source so for us we always cook fat side down. Most of the external fat will not render and it will not be absorbed by the meat. During cooking, the fat acts as a heat shield and will protect meat from drying out in the rising hot air.


Foil


Wrapping the brisket in aluminum foil has consequences you should understand. Foil wrapping will:

• Speed up the cooking process
• Protect the meat from the smoke
• Braise the meat in its internal juices and help it retain moisture
• Steam some of the flavor out of the brisket
• Soften any bark (external surface)

For us, the advantages of using foil outweigh the disadvantages and we always wrap our brisket in foil. We add more seasoning throughout the process and knowingly accept the soft bark. The best benefit of using foil is that it protects the meat from excess smoke. Once the temperature of the brisket reaches 140F, additional exposure to smoke isn’t really beneficial and will add bitterness to your final product as well as turn it black.

In contests, we wrap our brisket in foil after 5 hours. Some teams that foil brisket do it at a specific internal temperature (usually around 170F) and some teams wait until the outside of the brisket gets the color they’re looking for. For us, a consistent timeline is important at contests and using a hard foil time re-enforces that concept. And after 5 hours at 250F, the brisket is well over 140F internal and has the color we want.

We re-season it and add a foil marinade (see Part 3: Seasoning) at this point and wrap it in 2 or 3 layers of aluminum foil. It stays in the foil for the remainder of the cook and while it is resting.

Consider purchasing the big boxes of heavy duty aluminum foil from the warehouse stores. It’s much cheaper than buying the smaller boxes available at the supermarket.


Timing and Knowing When It’s Done
We put brisket on the cooker between 1-2AM the morning of turn-in. We foil it between 6-7AM that morning. It is usually done and removed from the cooker between 9-10AM. That gives us 4-5 hours of rest time (covered in Part 5). So our briskets usually take about 8 hours of cook time to finish. Some will finish quicker, some will take longer. Start probing at 30 minute intervals once the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 185F. They almost all get stuck for a period of time around 170F, a temperature zone known as the plateau, so don’t panic if it appears you aren’t making progress.

The primary tool for knowing when it’s done is the temperature probe. A brisket can be “done” anywhere between 190-205F internal temperature (probe the thickest part of the flat). For us, most briskets are between 195-200F when done. Taking the internal temperature of the brisket is only a guide though; you’ll know the brisket is optimally “done” when the probe slides in and out your meat without resistance. It should feel like a knife going through butter. If you’re just getting started and don’t know what that feeling is like, pull it off at 197F internal and it should be fine.

[The Big Pig]

Once the brisket is cooked, we remove it from the cooker, open the foil, and let it vent some of its heat. For a brisket wrapped in foil, it’s not uncommon to see a 5-10F increase in internal temperature once removed from the cooker. So we arrest the cooking process by letting some heat escape or risk ending up with overcooked meat.

We used to intentionally undercook the brisket and remove it from the cooker at 190F internal and let nature finish cooking it while resting. The problem with this method is that it is imprecise at best. Not all briskets finish at the same internal temperature and it is guesswork estimating precisely how much the foiled brisket will rise in temperature once removed. Our finished product was slightly inconsistent until we cooked the brisket to completion and the vented to stop the cooking process.


Resting
After the brisket has been vented, we close the foil back up and place it an insulated food carrier to rest. We use a Carlysle brand carrier but others use the more expensive and refined Cambro brand. If you don’t have an insulated food carrier, use an empty cooler for this purpose. Igloo 7 day coolers are just as effective as the insulated food carriers. They just don’t have the convenient shelf systems the food carriers do.

Resting the brisket does a few things. First, the brisket is going to retain a lot of heat and will maintain an internal temperature in excess of 190F for a long time. The connective tissue will continue to break down at this temperature without expelling moisture from continued cooking. And, once the brisket starts to cool, the protein fibers will begin to relax and some of the moisture inside the foil will be reabsorbed by the meat. The end result is that a brisket that has been rested for a couple of hours will be more tender and juicy than one that hasn’t been rested.

Resting also serves as a wonderful time buffer. Since it’s impossible to know exactly how long a brisket is going to take to cook but our turn-in times are inflexible, the resting period acts like a buffer. We can rest a brisket as long as 6-7 hours or as short as 1-2 hours if needed.

The resting time for the brisket is solely determined by when the brisket finishes cooking. We will rest the brisket from right after venting until 30 minutes before turn-in time. For example, if our brisket finishes at 9AM we have it resting in the Carlysle by 9:30AM and will remove it at 1:00PM for a 1:30PM turn-in time. If it finishes earlier, we leave it resting longer. If the brisket finishes after 9AM, it gets less rest time.


Collecting the Juice
About 30 minutes before turn-in time, we pull our brisket out of the food carriers. The first thing we do is open the foil in such a way that we can collect and retain any juices left in the foil. Kind of pinch one end of the foil into a funnel and tilt the brisket (still in the foil) so that the juices go through your funnel into a strainer held above a cup or bowl. We taste this juice and as long as it isn’t bitter or foul tasting, we’ll mix it with our sauces (see the Finishing Sauce section in Part 3: Seasoning).


Separating the Point and the Flat
The nice thing about waiting until now to separate the point from the flat is that it is relatively easy. If we trimmed the fat between these layers aggressively during trimming, they will often just pull apart with little effort. If not, place the brisket fat side down on the cutting board and take a long knife (8”+) and run it in the seam between the two layers while lifting up on the flat. The brisket should be hot to handle at this point so wear gloves. The fat in the seam is partially rendered and even a dull knife should cut through it rather easily. Once separated, set the flat aside and cover with a foil tent. The picture on the left below is a point that has been separated from a flat. The picture on the right is a flat that has been separated from a point.




Making Burnt Ends
Slice the point into ½ - 3/4” cubes. Keep the size as consistent as possible. Make sure and remove any big pockets of fat you come across as you don’t want a judge biting into a cube of fat by mistake. Place your cubed point into an aluminum pan and toss with 1 ½ C of your sauce mixed with about ½ C of the reserved drippings. Use a spoon to mix the meat and sauce well. Place the aluminum pan back on the cooker while you’re preparing the flat.




Slicing the Flat
Using a good knife is critical when slicing brisket flat. We use a 12” Forschner Kullenschliff with a Granton edge (see picture below). Other teams have success using a sharp electric knife. The knife you use needs to be sharp to minimize tearing and long enough to cut across the flat in a straight line.





About 15 minutes before turn-in, remove the foil tent from the flat. Start at one end of the flat and make pencil width slices perpendicular to the grain of the meat. We don’t use the ends for turn-in but I like to slice the entire flat at once. The first end I slice makes for good practice and helps me get in a rhythm for the slices that count. I like to taste the end pieces to determine which flat we use and which end of that flat we favor. I pay close attention to how tender the brisket feels when slicing and generally end up selecting the region of the flat that was the most tender. We leave a thin layer (1/4” or less) of fat on the bottom of the flat slices. This fat has a lot of flavor that we want included on our slices. The picture below is a brisket flat that has been sliced.




There are a few adjustments you can make to improve your flat slices. However, some of these take good knife skills so you may want practice them before trying out at a contest.

If the flat is overcooked, you can cut slices slightly wider than a pencil. The brisket is overcooked if it crumbles or falls apart when slicing or picking up the slices. Experienced judges will spot this fix rather easily and will likely score you down because of it, but it will be no worse than if you turned in a bunch of crumbled slices.

Another technique you can use on an overcooked brisket is by altering the cutting axis so it is slightly off perpendicular to the grain. We normally cut brisket at a 90 degree angle to the grain to make it easier to chew. However, if the brisket is overcooked and falling apart, the slices will hold together better if you add a 5-10 degree angle to your slicing plane.

If you’ve undercooked the flat you can cut your slices a little thinner than pencil width. You’ll know the brisket is undercooked if it is tough and slicing thin makes it easier to chew and masks the toughness. Again, experienced judges are aware of this technique too and will score accordingly, but they won’t score tenderness any worse than they would have otherwise and you might actually trick a judge or two.

If the flat is really short you can slice the meat on a bias to add a little height to the slices. This technique takes a really steady hand and good knife skills but it can add some height to your slices. For example, if the flat was ¾” thick and you sliced it at a 45 degree bias, the height of your slices would be slightly over 1” (the Pythagorean theorem works in BBQ too). In this example, we’ve increased the height of the slices by more than 1/3. A 45 degree slicing bias is extreme and I used that example only for illustrative purposes.

As stated in the Seasoning section, our finishing sauce for the flat is made of about ¼ Cup of BBQ sauce with a Cup or more of the strained drippings we reserved from the foil in an aluminum pan. This pan is usually placed on top of our smoker to so it heats the sauce up a bit before we use it.

Once the flat is sliced, we select our best 7-9 slices from the flat that tasted the best and were the most tender. I like to take a slice of the flat and lay it over the knife so the ends droop. In a brisket that has been properly cooked, the meat will look like it is pulling apart with the force of gravity alone. Then, we take all of the slices we’re going to turn in and dredge them in the pan with sauce. We make sure and cover the slices thoroughly. We temporarily leave the flat slices in the sauce pan while we get ready to assemble the box for presentation.

[The Big Pig]

In general, the goal of presentation is to get the judges to eat with their eyes first. You want them salivating when your box is opened and passed for visual inspection. While appearance points are only weighted roughly ¼ of taste points and ½ of tenderness points, they are extremely important.

First, every possible fraction of a point is important in a KCBS contest. Places are often determined by thousandths of a point (that’s the 3rd number to the right of the decimal). We’ve had many entries that would have moved up or down in place with a single point change in appearance scores and we’ve done contests where a single appearance point is all that separated us from a different overall finish.

Second, I think that judges are predisposed to score taste and tenderness higher on entries they visually favor. Our best taste and tenderness scores come from entries that also receive the highest appearance scores. This may be a case of the chicken or the egg coming first but I tend to think it’s a little of both.

Even if you are just learning how to compete, I think it is important to go the distance and do the best job possible on appearance. There is no reason to spend $500-$1000+ on a contest, work your butt off cooking great food, and do poorly on appearance scores.

Garnish
In theory, the use or absence of garnish in a KCBS contest entry should not impact your scores from the judges. In practice, garnish absolutely affects your scores. I have yet to come across a team that wins consistently that does not use garnish in their entry boxes. Although it frustrates many cooks and there are some who would like to adopt “no garnish” rules, as long as the KCBS keeps the current rules in place you might as well adapt and learn use it to your advantage.

Presenting entries on a bed of lettuce is probably the most common method used in KCBS competitions. This usually involves placing 4-6 leafs from a green leaf lettuce head in the bottom of your box and placing the entry on top of the lettuce. Sometimes, teams will accent the box with parsley. We did this for 6 years. It is easy, cheap, and quick. I have seen a few lettuce boxes that look great. And if I thought we could consistently duplicate them, I would revert back to lettuce in a heartbeat. However, most do not look so good. The meat sits lower in a lettuce box and the uneven edges often distract from and sometimes cover up the entry.

For the last year and a half we have used what are commonly called “putting greens” for all of our turn-in boxes. Creating these presentation boxes is tedious, time consuming work but we think they are well worth it. A good putting green will provide you an attractive surface to display and frame your entry without distracting from the meat itself. You can see detailed instructions on how to make a putting green here. If cooking alone, you will need to make your boxes the night before turn-in, after you get them at the cooks meeting. Our team has a dedicated box maker that assembles our putting greens the morning of turn-in while the rest of the team fusses over the cooking.


Assembling the Brisket Box
About 15 minutes before turn in we take the pan with the burnt ends off of the cooker and stir them to get an equal coating of sauce on all of the pieces. At 10 minutes to turn-in, we start assembling the box.

We make sure and taste one of the burnt ends. At this point, our options to repair or improve the burnt ends are limited. We can add more sauce or dry rub. We can add salt, pepper, or other spices. One caution about adding dry seasonings is that they tend to stay granulated and judges can often pick up on the texture difference. We can thin out the sauce with broth, water, apple juice, or reserved juices. We can even sear them over a high heat if needed. If the burnt ends do not impress us, we leave them out of the box. We only submit them with our entry when we think they will improve our scores on the flat slices.

Once we are satisfied with the taste, we hand select 6-8 uniformly sized pieces for turn-in. We like to make sure each burnt end is uber-tender and has bark on it. We take these pieces out of the pan and rest them on the cutting board to let the excess sauce drip off. While they are on the cutting board, we lightly sprinkle our finely ground finishing rub (see Part 3 – Seasoning: Final Seasoning) on each piece. Then we neatly arrange them in 1 or 2 rows along the back of the turn-in box.

After the burnt end pieces are in the box, we take our flat slices out of the dredge pan and lay them out on the cutting board. We lightly dust those slices with the finishing rub and lay them out evenly in the box in a back to front arrangement with the back slice resting on the burn ends. We try and fan out the slices enough so that the smoke ring is visible on each slice.

We try and make the box look full. If there is a big space in the front, we might grab the next slice from the flat and quickly run it through the same process before placing it in the box. If the box looks too crowded, we will remove one of the extra slices.

Then, we try and clean up the front slice a little. Even though we strain our drippings, some debris inevitably winds up in the dredge. We remove any big pieces of crust from the front slice so it looks clean. Some teams use tweezers to make this part easier.

Once all of the meat is in the box and we like the arrangement, we use a spray bottle and spritz the entry with water to add a little extra shine and help dissolve any visible finishing rub. Then we use a paper towel to clean up any excess water or sauce that might be on the box edges or top. Lastly, we take a few pictures of the entry so we can review and critique them later. The picture taking has been very helpful in our improvement process.

I have included pictures of some of our award winning briskets from 2008 below. I also included our 6 judge average appearance score and the place it finished in the contest. Keep in mind that in KCBS judging, the lowest overall score is dropped and that usually results in a higher 5 judge average score. When we get over 8.0 in a 6 judge appearance, we seem to do well come awards time.


Contest: 2008 American Royal (Kansas City, MO)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.0
Place: 55th/459



Contest: 2008 Cross Points (Shawnee, KS)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.5
Place: 8th/27



Contest: 2008 Leavenworth (Leavenworth, KS)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.17
Place: 10th/27



Contest: 2008 Raytown (Raytown, MO)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.5
Place: 1st/66



Contest: 2008 Sertoma 48 (Lawrence, KS)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.33
Place: 6th/48



Contest: 2008 Pleasant Hill (Pleasant Hill, MO)
Six Judge Avg. Appearance Score: 8.0
Place: 2nd/54